While drooling over, I mean researching the new JBJ Unibody LED, we stumbled upon an entirely new lineup of rimless Nano Cubes from JBJ USA. The Nano Cube RL, as it is called, is a sleek new aquarium that falls more in line with the tastes of the ever evolving aquarium keeper. The setup is still an all-in-one nano, which have been quite popular as desktop aquariums at work or as kitchen counter top accessories for many years, as it retains the built-in filtration. It doesn’t retain the old bulky old hoods of previous models, however. We assumed the release of the new rimless nano had a lot to do with the unveiling of the stylish Unibody fixture, which would look oh so good together, but there wasn’t a whole lot of information on rimless tanks, until now. Recently listed on Marine Depot, we get to see two models…an 8 gallon and a 30 gallon. When we first reported on the Nano Cube RL there was also a 5 gallon model, but we’re guessing it’s either been delayed or scrapped altogether.

Prices and specs below.

JBJ Nano Cube RL 8 Gallons:

Aquarium Specs:

• 8 Gallon Capacity
• 6 mm Bent Glass
• Tempered Glass Lid & Clips

Filtration:

• Acrylic Filter Wall w/ Overflow
• Media Basket
• Mechanical Sponge
• Activated Carbon Sponge
• Biological Ceramic Rings
• Single return Nozzle
• Designated Heater Column

Price:

• $170

JBJ Nano Cube RL 30 Gallons:

Aquarium Specs:

• 30 Gallon Capacity
• 8 mm Bent Glass
• Tempered Glass Lid & Clips

Filtration:

• Acrylic Filter Wall w/ Dual Overflows
• 3 Stage Filter Media Basket
• Mechanical Sponge
• Activated Carbon Sponge
• Biological Ceramic Rings
• Duo return Nozzle
• Designated Heater Column
• Designated Refugium Column

Price:

• $310

Update: The price on the larger 30-gallon aquarium has changed, at least on the Marine Depot website. The new price is $310 and this change is reflected in the specs above. ~ Thanks for the heads up Michelle

Juvenile Xanthic Scopas Tang from RVS Fish World

Scopas tangs (Zebrasoma scopas) seem to come in an unending variety of colors and patterns. Whether they be hybrids between two similar species, multicolor mutatants, or just different enough to catch our eye, the fish continue to be walk that thin line between what is considered uniquely beautiful and grotesquely bizarre. The latest Scopas weirdos, which come to us from Barnett Shutman from CV Neptune Marine, are actually entirely yellow, or xanthic, scopas tangs. The two fish, a juvenile and an adult, look almost identical to their yellow tang cousins (Z. flavescens), and their coloration is either further evidence of hybridization between the two species or gives more credence to the idea that the two species are actually one in the same instead of being two distinct species…just depends on how you look at it. For the record, there is some DNA evidence that Z. scopas and Z. flavescens are actually the same species, but that’s for another time. Regardless of all that chatter, these fish are still pretty cool looking. Both individuals, which have received the moniker Banana Yellow Scopus Tang, were collected in the Katakian Islands in Quezon Province, which is located in the northeastern part of the Philippines. There’s no details on where these fish are going and how much they will cost, but other Scopas hybrids and similar offcolor tangs have gone for over $100 at the retail level.

A few more images can be seen after the break.

Xanthic Scopas Tang

Adult and Juvenile Xanthic Scopas Tangs

Yellow Zebrasoma scopas Tang

Please note that we slightly increased the contrast of the images as they were bright and cloudy looking due to microbubbles in the water.

Can’t decide on what what parameters to test for or what test kits are the most reliable? To determine the types of tests you need to perform will depend on the type of aquarium you run, as well as what stage the aquarium is in. If you run a fish-only system, things like calcium and alkalinity may not be of any use. Also, if your aquarium has been up and running for a few years, then test kits for ammonia and nitrite may be pointless. On the flip side, if you are just starting a new aquarium, test kits measuring ammonia and nitrite are crucial, as they will help you determine if the aquarium is still cycling. As for the types of test kits, there are two different kinds…titration-based and digital. The titration test kits are easy to use and are inexpensive. Unfortunately, they can be very subjective (e.g. color changes) and do not offer the resolution of digital testers. The digital test kits are a bit pricier, but are also pretty easy to use and can read results down to 0.00 ppm, usually. Both choices are good for aquarium keepers, but the choice usually comes down to ballpark figures versus better resolution.

It’s easy to pick up a little extra aquarium-related info the same time you’re purchasing saltwater livestock. Typically, fish stores can be fairly good sources of hobby knowledge. Despite this, the local fish store shouldn’t be responsible for our poor fish purchases. Yes, there is some accountability with the LFS, but the brunt of the responsibility should fall on our own shoulders. It is up to aquarium hobbyists to properly educate themselves on the special needs of each and every fish, coral, and invertebrate that finds its way into our tanks. If a local fish store dishes out bad information, then shame on them. But aquarium keepers shouldn’t limit their source of knowledge to just one place, but instead branch out and get the info from many different places.

Don’t like to read directions when setting up new equipment or do you get so bogged down in instruction manuals that all of the features and settings start to blur together? Well, EcoTech Marine understands this and has released a video tutorial showing you how to setup your new Radion XR30w. This valuable video resource, which doesn’t have any sound unfortunately, goes through the setup process step by step, starting with the moment you plug the light in. It follows the setup process through multiple light modes, including the popular lighting storm functions and a feeding mode. Also detailed are the touch control of the Radion and how they are used to enter into the different modes.

Once juiced up, the light starts in a default setting called “Basic Mode”. This mode has several preset color temperatures that can be selected with the touch sensitive buttons on top of the light fixture. Once a setting is picked out, it will remain on that until changed. In Basic Mode, the timer functions do not work, but the light can be plugged into timers to turn the fixture on and off. However, as soon as the light is hooked up to a computer and treated to the EcoSmart Configuration Utility, the clocks will be activated and the light will move into “Artificial Mode”. Since we all know the basic mode isn’t enough for hardcore aquarists, let’s move on to the next setting.

The “Thunderstorm Mode” is a nifty function of the Radion as well. In this setting the lights slowly dim, then the whites start to flicker. Following the Thunderstorm, and bypassing the” Demo Mode” since I don’t see any realistic use of this mode over an aquarium, the “Feeding Mode” is examined. This is where the Radion really shows off its wireless communication capabilities. When the Feeding Mode is triggered on the lights, any EcoSmart powered VorTech pumps married to the wireless setup will also go into feeding mode. This means the pumps slow down significantly, allowing the food to stay suspended and easy to catch by the fish.

Wrapping up the video is a function to turn the lights off and on. Simply tap the three touch sensitive buttons on the top of the Radion and all of the LEDs will turn off. To turn the light back on, just repeat this action. Also examined in the video is the adjustment of the light intensity using those same buttons. To raise or lower the intensity by a single percentage point, just tap the appropriate button once. To rapidly increase or decrease the light output, hold the buttons down until the desired intensity is dialed in.

When changing light bulbs in your aquarium fixture, be sure to allow the lamps plenty of time to cool off before attempting to remove them. Whether T5HO, metal halide, or whatever you like to use, the bulbs operate at a very high temperature and can burn your hands. This may seem like an obvious suggestion, but when people get into aquarium maintenance mode, they may forget the bulbs are hot or may lose track of how much time has passed between turning them off and attempting to handle them. Also, make sure your hands are dry. If you grab a hot bulb with cold, wet hands, the bulbs could shatter. Lastly, when handling metal halide light bulbs, don’t grab the bulb with your bare hands. Because the bulbs run so hot, grease and oils from your hands can cause cracking on the surface. Though it’s probably a rare occurrence, I wouldn’t want to have to replace a $60 bulb because of it cracking.

Some hobbyists use a rock curing process known as “live rock cooking”, where the rock is placed into containers with freshly mixed saltwater and essentially deprived of light for long periods of time, preventing any sort of algae growth and killing the algae already on the rocks. The goal of live rock cooking is to promote bacterial growth, which will consume organic matter that would likely be a source of nitrate and phosphate in an established aquarium. The cooking process will take a couple of months and will require multiple water changes, and each tub of rock will have all sorts of sand and detritus settled on the bottom.

A few days ago we showed off footage of a new skimmer from Reef Octopus that was still in the testing stage. Dubbed the Reef Octopus “Cupid”, the tiny in-tank protein skimmer shows off several new features in its final rendition that were completely lacking in the previous model. What’s new is the base plate and riser tube, along with the added flexibility of having some of the hanging brackets be removable. The first prototype we spied was simply sitting in an aquarium and allowing microbubbles to escape the open bottom of the skimmer and clouding up the tank. This update version forces bubbles out of a foam-topped riser tube, reminding us so much of skimmers from back in the day. The skimmer can apparently be run in-sump without all the hanging gear as well, though it would appear that due to the pump’s position on the body, the water level would have to be fairly deep for everything to work properly…after all, this is an in-tank skimmer.

We are currently unsure of the overall finalized dimensions and tank rating of this nano skimmer, but those will be made available at some point and we’ll update accordingly. We do know however that the chamber itself has a 3″ diameter, though we’re positive the footprint has grown a few inches.

Even though the all new Radion LED has just made it’s big splash on the aquarium scene and isn’t even available to purchase yet, a local hobbyist/photographer has gotten his hands on it, well actually two! Local aquarist Dennis has has a stunning pair of Radions sitting over his awesome 36″ EcoTech powered cube tank that even includes a pair of MP40w ES pumps inside a unique and ingenious dry dock setup. The mixed reef is stunning to say the least and the Radions really make it shine. We will have more info about the light and some photos of our own later in the day, but until then enjoy the pics of these sharp looking tester units.

Wrasse are known aquarium bailout artists, but many other fish jump from open-top tanks as well. And they may not be the fish you’d expect to see carpet surfing. For example, some hobbyists have reported fish like lionfish and clownfish jumping out of their aquariums. Eels are also known escape artists, as they can even get out of aquariums with glass tops. To keep fish in the tank, most aquarium keepers use a screen mesh material that covers the entire top of the aquarium. The mesh is usually small enough to keep most fish in, but is also open enough to let light in unrestricted.